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Friday, September 18, 2015

THOUGHTS ON ECUADOR


My sojourn was an invaluable experience; despite the fact I was tired, uncomfortable, and in pain most of the time. This was especially true in the Galapagos Islands supposedly the pure vacation part of our trip. Instead it was more of an ordeal, at least for me! I’m not saying I would never return, but you’d have to twist my arm pretty hard.

However, we didn’t encounter any big problems! This was largely due to Rose. She did an impressive job of putting our trip together. And I could not have hoped for a better travel companion.

The Andes Mountains are magnificent to behold! Everything is lush and green, natural beauty is everywhere. Plus it has spring weather year round.  Should I move to Ecuador, I’d probably live in the Gringo town of Cotacachi. However the buildings and almost everything else look old, rundown, and beat up; as if they had gone thru a war and were on the losing side. This is true of the neighboring municipalities, too. (Standard Third World) As a visitor, it has a certain charm. But if I move there, will I still find it charming, or will it just be depressing.

I did not know this, but in 1995 Ecuador was at war with Peru! The Alto Cenepa War over control of territory in Peru’s Province of Condorcanqui. Ecuador won, but was later forced to relinquish the territory.

As I related this to a friend, I was warned that bad things can happen fast in the Third World! (OK, I saw the movie NO ESCAPE and my next trip is to Indochina in early 2016.) But no place on earth is safe. And I’m not expecting Shangri La!

Ecuador is currently the No. 1 spot for U.S. retirees. As I stated in a previous blog, there are 2 sets of prices. -- I’ve found this to be true right here as well! As a single woman, I’m often charged more. Plus I’ve had repair & handymen fail to show up or do lousy work at inflated prices; my single friends all report similar experiences. Another friend told me, “As a single woman on a fixed income, you either make do, or do without.” In this area, I feel as if I’ve had lots of training for the Third World… But as a Gringita alone; I’ll need to be especially careful.   

In Cotacachi, stores, including the grocery were tiny. For a variety of choices, many go to Ibarra and shop at the Supermaxi (YES, I know that sounds like a super absorbent sanitary napkin!!!) “It has everything!” I was told. – Well, it was about the size of a regular U.S. supermarket. And no, they didn’t have everything, far from it. Plus anything imported from the U.S. is exorbitantly expensive!

I’ll admit that I’m a spoiled First Worlder. I like things big, new, and shiny! And I want everything quick and convenient! Plus I enjoy having lots of choices. I love my life in Vero Beach and I especially love my house! To be honest, I don’t want to move anywhere. Unfortunately due to inflation, my age and the cost of Healthcare, I can’t!

Leaving this country is strictly based on financial necessity. The closest thing I can compare it to is a shotgun marriage. It’s going to be a major adjustment!

Plus I’d like to give up driving. Traffic is getting worse here all the time! My old car is showing its age and I’m starting to feel mine. Public transportation is cheaper and more available in developing countries. Most retired Expats in Ecuador do NOT own cars.

Also I’d like to do some traveling while I still have my health. After my experience in the Galapagos, I can understand why older people don’t want to anymore. But there are still places on the globe I want to see!

Recently, I read in our local newspaper that property taxes will rise by nearly 8% in 2016. All signs point that I need to go, whether I want to or not!

In Cotacachi we met with a Realtor, a man named Patricio. He took us to a high-end gated community for Expats. The landscaping evoked images of the Garden of Eden with the breathtaking Andes Mountains surrounding it. The place had a dreamlike, ethereal quality. The lady in the office told us, “We’re not selling homes, we’re selling a lifestyle.” -- Well it’s certainly a lifestyle I can’t afford!!! After we left, I asked Patricio to show me some places for RENT in MY price range.

“Not until you’re serious about moving here,” he curtly replied. As he dropped us off downtown he demanded a $25 fee for his services. In retrospect, we should have given him a hard time about this, but we were blindsided by this rip-off artist. Patricio had been recommended by one of our guides. He was probably a relative.

However, Expats assured me I’d be able to find a comfortable place on my income. Plus I could even afford a maid! Everyone we spoke with said they were happy with their decision to relocate. However, one stated, “You’ll be happy here only after you accept the fact that nothing will ever be done the way you want, when you want!” -- Sounds like a deal breaker to me.

Utility bills are low, but this is strictly a cash society. No one trusts checks! You must show up each month at their office with cash in hand, I am told. Incredibly, the U.S. Dollar is their currency! Sacagawea coins are in common use there. They would NOT accept these at the Post Office after I returned. Guess North Americans just don’t appreciate a genuine American heroine!

We witnessed several funerals in procession; one in the Andes, another in the Galapagos. A casket was carried down the streets with a long line of mourners following behind. – They don’t boogie like in New Orleans. Everyone was somber.

Ecuador is the rose capitol of the world! A dozen beautiful (all variety of colors) long stem ones can be purchased for just $1. I heard that in the big cities it’s $2. That’s still astounding! – I was in the Florist Business during the 1970’s and they went for as much as $70 a dozen during major holidays.

The food is tasty and inexpensive, depending on where you eat of course. Pizza is popular and was sold everywhere we went, which makes me happy!  I want my last meal on this planet to be a goat cheese pizza with Portobello mushrooms & lots of garlic! -- When they throw me in the crematory oven I want the entire funeral home to smell like a pizzeria! 

In Ibarra, we stopped for ice cream. Before us were exotic flavors & combinations I’d never heard of before, too many to try. We chose a delicious one with coconut cream, fruit pieces, & nuts.

ALL throughout Ecuador, even in the capitol city of Quito and the Galapagos Islands you hear roosters crowing at ALL hours! I think the rooster should be the national bird instead of the Andean condor. An Expat told us, “You’ll never experience a quiet night here, Ecuador is noisy.”-- Actually many nights would have been quiet except for those damn roosters! I’m starting to change my mind regarding cockfighting!!!

Up in the Andes, the Ecuadorans are certainly an affectionate people.  Nearly everyone from taxi drivers, guides, and hotel staff would hug us and kiss our cheeks every time we departed.  – In my family we don’t even do that with relatives!

After returning home, Florida received its first serious hurricane threat. Fortunately, it turned out to be a non-event. (Whew!) We’d been told to stock up on bottled water. However I always fill  old milk jugs & juice bottles with tap water 24 hours before landfall. Unless I’m in a Third World country, I refuse to buy the bottled kind!

I want to see Thailand before I reach any decisions.  Also I haven’t ruled out, Mexico!

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