SUKHOTHAI TO LAMPANG

This morning it was a tour of Sukhothai’s Old City, now a historical park. The Sukhothai Kingdom is considered the Golden Age of Thai civilization. It is protected by 2 moats and 3 rows of earthen walls. As Ketsara & I waited to catch the trolley, I chatted with a nice man from Cameroon who spoke English with a lovely accent.

The trolley was too packed with Chinese students to take us. And we didn’t want to wait 45 minutes to catch another, so we decided to go back and rent bicycles. I had not been on one since I was 10 years old. I wanted to peddle barefoot, because the thongs I’d purchased had thick ridged soles, plus my feet were so swollen, I could better feel the pedals that way. Ketsara thought this was a bad idea!

She rented a bicycle with an extra seat and she peddled! I hung onto her. I was wearing a big, broad-brimmed hat and we must have made a comical sight, because we passed a group of Chinese who shot pictures of us!

Afterward, we toured the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum displaying ancient artifacts. Then more WATS; (temples) Wat Chang Lom, Wat Chedi Jet Thaco, and Wat Nang Phaya.

I saw much of rural Thailand on the journey north. Squat toilets are unavoidable, believe me, I tried! The seat is on the floor. There’s no tissue, you must always carry Kleenex. There’s a tub of water with a pan next to the seat. You pan water into the toilet to flush! The floor is always wet and you hope it’s just water! If you’re lucky, there’s a sink outside for hand washing, but you must shake dry. -- I carried hand sanitizer in my purse!

By afternoon, we arrived in Lampang. After visiting the local market, a horse-drawn buggy awaited me for a city tour. Then I visited a 100 year old teakwood house; also another WAT, this one, Wat Don Tao.

Thai ladies were always complementing me on my porcelain complexion. I was told they use cosmetics to lighten theirs as much as possible. I told Ketsara that in Florida everyone has been brainwashed to believe you’re not attractive unless you’re sporting a tan; despite damaging effects of the sun. My skin doesn’t tan, it just burns and peels.

Always, I was referred to as “Madame” by Ketsara and the other Thais. This made me feel as if I’d stepped into another century and I was an Imperialist.

Late afternoon, I was driven to the Lampang River Lodge Resort for the night. This was located away from the city and as most resorts there, was so spread out, I was handed a map along with my room key.

The rooms all sat high atop long stilts with the river below, beyond was jungle. The porch had a comfortable lounge chair and I was exhausted.

The following morning I was up and dressed for breakfast just before 6:00 AM. We had to roll at 8:00 AM and I had plenty to do. Outside, it was still dark as night. The lengthy steps down from my room were so narrow they reminded me of those on pyramids in Central America, used for rolling bodies. I already experienced several tumbles on this trip and these dark stairs gave me pause. I clung tightly to the railing and stepped gingerly.

The pathways were dimly lit. Scenic in sunlight, but spooky in darkness, this now felt like a Ghost Resort. Not a soul was around! Plus it seemed unusually cold for Thailand. I searched until I came to a man sweeping the sideway. With my hand, I made eating motions. He smiled and directed me to a long, wooden suspension bridge, (these are common in Thailand) then pointed to the left.

Following his directions, I came upon a nicely stocked Breakfast Bar bustling with cooks & staff, but no patrons. I carried my tray down to a table by the river. It was so chilly, I was tempted to go back and get my heavy sweater, but I just filled up on hot coffee instead.

After I finished my big, American-style breakfast with Thai flourishes, I was still the only guest around. The sun had yet to rise.

At 8:00 AM Ketsara & Pako awaited me. There was more of Lampang to see, before we traveled further north.

I found it heart-wrenching all the sad and despondent dogs abandoned throughout Thailand. Signs featuring dogs with X’s thru them could be seen on the roadsides. I asked Ketsara what they meant. “No dog dumping, here. It’s illegal,” she said. “But people do it anyway!” And worse, unscrupulous types round them up and jam them together in crates to be sold as meat in Viet Nam. This is a horrendous fate!