THOUGHTS ON ECUADOR

My sojourn was an invaluable experience; despite the fact I was tired, uncomfortable, and in pain most of the time. This was especially true in the Galapagos Islands supposedly the pure vacation part of our trip. Instead it was more of an ordeal, at least for me! I’m not saying I would never return, but you’d have to twist my arm pretty hard.

However, we didn’t encounter any big problems! This was largely due to Rose. She did an impressive job of putting our trip together. And I could not have hoped for a better travel companion.

The Andes Mountains are magnificent to behold! Everything is lush and green, natural beauty is everywhere. Plus it has spring weather year round.  Should I move to Ecuador, I’d probably live in the Gringo town of Cotacachi. However the buildings and almost everything else look old, rundown, and beat up; as if they had gone thru a war and were on the losing side. This is true of the neighboring municipalities, too. (Standard Third World) As a visitor, it has a certain charm. But if I move there, will I still find it charming, or will it just be depressing.

I did not know this, but in 1995 Ecuador was at war with Peru! The Alto Cenepa War over control of territory in Peru’s Province of Condorcanqui. Ecuador won, but was later forced to relinquish the territory.

As I related this to a friend, I was warned that bad things can happen fast in the Third World! (OK, I saw the movie NO ESCAPE and my next trip is to Indochina in early 2016.) But no place on earth is safe. And I’m not expecting Shangri La!

Ecuador is currently the No. 1 spot for U.S. retirees. As I stated in a previous blog, there are 2 sets of prices. -- I’ve found this to be true right here as well! As a single woman, I’m often charged more. Plus I’ve had repair & handymen fail to show up or do lousy work at inflated prices; my single friends all report similar experiences. Another friend told me, “As a single woman on a fixed income, you either make do, or do without.” In this area, I feel as if I’ve had lots of training for the Third World… But as a Gringita alone; I’ll need to be especially careful.   

In Cotacachi, stores, including the grocery were tiny. For a variety of choices, many go to Ibarra and shop at the Supermaxi (YES, I know that sounds like a super absorbent sanitary napkin!!!) “It has everything!” I was told. – Well, it was about the size of a regular U.S. supermarket. And no, they didn’t have everything, far from it. Plus anything imported from the U.S. is exorbitantly expensive!

I’ll admit that I’m a spoiled First Worlder. I like things big, new, and shiny! And I want everything quick and convenient! Plus I enjoy having lots of choices. I love my life in Vero Beach and I especially love my house! To be honest, I don’t want to move anywhere. Unfortunately due to inflation, my age and the cost of Healthcare, I can’t!

Leaving this country is strictly based on financial necessity. The closest thing I can compare it to is a shotgun marriage. It’s going to be a major adjustment!

Plus I’d like to give up driving. Traffic is getting worse here all the time! My old car is showing its age and I’m starting to feel mine. Public transportation is cheaper and more available in developing countries. Most retired Expats in Ecuador do NOT own cars.

Also I’d like to do some traveling while I still have my health. After my experience in the Galapagos, I can understand why older people don’t want to anymore. But there are still places on the globe I want to see!

Recently, I read in our local newspaper that property taxes will rise by nearly 8% in 2016. All signs point that I need to go, whether I want to or not!

In Cotacachi we met with a Realtor, a man named Patricio. He took us to a high-end gated community for Expats. The landscaping evoked images of the Garden of Eden with the breathtaking Andes Mountains surrounding it. The place had a dreamlike, ethereal quality. The lady in the office told us, “We’re not selling homes, we’re selling a lifestyle.” -- Well it’s certainly a lifestyle I can’t afford!!! After we left, I asked Patricio to show me some places for RENT in MY price range.

“Not until you’re serious about moving here,” he curtly replied. As he dropped us off downtown he demanded a $25 fee for his services. In retrospect, we should have given him a hard time about this, but we were blindsided by this rip-off artist. Patricio had been recommended by one of our guides. He was probably a relative.

However, Expats assured me I’d be able to find a comfortable place on my income. Plus I could even afford a maid! Everyone we spoke with said they were happy with their decision to relocate. However, one stated, “You’ll be happy here only after you accept the fact that nothing will ever be done the way you want, when you want!” -- Sounds like a deal breaker to me.

Utility bills are low, but this is strictly a cash society. No one trusts checks! You must show up each month at their office with cash in hand, I am told. Incredibly, the U.S. Dollar is their currency! Sacagawea coins are in common use there. They would NOT accept these at the Post Office after I returned. Guess North Americans just don’t appreciate a genuine American heroine!

We witnessed several funerals in procession; one in the Andes, another in the Galapagos. A casket was carried down the streets with a long line of mourners following behind. – They don’t boogie like in New Orleans. Everyone was somber.

Ecuador is the rose capitol of the world! A dozen beautiful (all variety of colors) long stem ones can be purchased for just $1. I heard that in the big cities it’s $2. That’s still astounding! – I was in the Florist Business during the 1970’s and they went for as much as $70 a dozen during major holidays.

The food is tasty and inexpensive, depending on where you eat of course. Pizza is popular and was sold everywhere we went, which makes me happy!  I want my last meal on this planet to be a goat cheese pizza with Portobello mushrooms & lots of garlic! -- When they throw me in the crematory oven I want the entire funeral home to smell like a pizzeria! 

In Ibarra, we stopped for ice cream. Before us were exotic flavors & combinations I’d never heard of before, too many to try. We chose a delicious one with coconut cream, fruit pieces, & nuts.

ALL throughout Ecuador, even in the capitol city of Quito and the Galapagos Islands you hear roosters crowing at ALL hours! I think the rooster should be the national bird instead of the Andean condor. An Expat told us, “You’ll never experience a quiet night here, Ecuador is noisy.”-- Actually many nights would have been quiet except for those damn roosters! I’m starting to change my mind regarding cockfighting!!!

Up in the Andes, the Ecuadorans are certainly an affectionate people.  Nearly everyone from taxi drivers, guides, and hotel staff would hug us and kiss our cheeks every time we departed.  – In my family we don’t even do that with relatives!

After returning home, Florida received its first serious hurricane threat. Fortunately, it turned out to be a non-event. (Whew!) We’d been told to stock up on bottled water. However I always fill  old milk jugs & juice bottles with tap water 24 hours before landfall. Unless I’m in a Third World country, I refuse to buy the bottled kind!

I want to see Thailand before I reach any decisions.  Also I haven’t ruled out, Mexico!

ELEVEN DAYS IN SOUTH AMERICA: THE GALAPAGOS

The Galapagos Islands are 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. After landing, we gained yet another hour which we would lose upon returning to Fort Lauderdale.

As we left the airport on the humid cactus-covered island of Baltra, we boarded a crowded bus. Many were forced to stand. Wasps were flying around our heads. From there, we were crammed onto a ferry and taken to Isla Santa Cruz.

The Galapagos is truly an international spot.  We encountered people from all over the globe!

Taxis there are white pick-up trucks. After 10 minutes of stepping inside one, our driver ran out of gas!!! The truck sputtered to a stop.  Most of the road was dirt with jungle on each side.  The weather was hot and there was no A.C.! Our driver was unable to get reception on his cell phone. On pure fumes alone, he managed to get us up hills praying all the way and then coasting down. It was truly a miracle!!!

As we entered the town of Puerto Ayora we cheered for joy at the sight of a gas station!  Our hotel was only a few miles away.

Although the Galapagos is an expensive place, this hotel was the cheapest one of our trip, plus the price included breakfast. But here, we were charged for bottled water. However, there was a water-cooler at the end of our hall and we’d sneak over and fill our empty bottles. We saw other guests doing likewise.

Somehow, I ended up with a large double room. Rose had a small one next door. But the walls were paper thin! I chose the room closest to the bath.  Around 11:30 PM my neighbors started blasting loud rock music.  Exhausted and in pain, I sat up and started screaming at the top of my lungs! Rose thought someone was being murdered and called the front desk.  By this time, I had moved into my other bedroom.

Our views were crappy, overlooking air conditioning units. But we were so grateful for the low price; we just kept our drapes closed.

From our hotel roof, the ocean appeared close. However walking there on sore swollen feet & ankles, it felt miles away! To get there, we had to walk down a long dirt road under construction. I call it Dirt Street and I can still feel it in my nightmares!

I had purchased a pair of flip-flops for my banged-up swollen feet.  By now it had become too difficult fitting into my Hush Puppies.

At the pier we boarded a boat to Playa de los Alimanes.  We hiked numerous raw & wild nature trails. I groaned in pain every which way!  Once, I slipped on a steep lava rock and grabbed the closest thing to me, which turned out to be a cactus! We came upon a scenic spot called Las Grietas; inside a natural rock formation was a lake & stream with water so clear you could see the fish in detail.

In the afternoon, we visited the Charles Darwin Nature Preserve. Afterward we strolled along the beach.

Also we booked tours to different isles.  On the map, the Galapagos Islands look close together; however with some exceptions, most are hours apart by boat and each excursion lasted a full day.  One could be there an entire month and not see everything! Plus these excursions were expensive!  Rose managed to negotiate ours down by $10 each.

Our first excursion was to Daphne Major, Pinzon, & Bahia Borrero. I didn’t know it until after I paid, but this was a snorkeling trip! -- I’m a good swimmer because nature equipped me with floatation devices in the front & back, but it freaks me out to have my head under water!

After I put on the goggles & mouthpiece and jumped into the water, I couldn’t see and I couldn’t breathe, plus the Pacific is cold! And every time I put my face under, the mouthpiece kept coming out and I was swallowing water!  (I couldn’t believe people actually thought this was fun!) The guide told me, “Put your face under again and see all those fish!”

I screamed at him, “I’m from Florida, I’ve seen fish before! Take me back to the boat!” I sat shivering as the greasy SPF 50 sunscreen stung & burned my eyes. My nose ran like a faucet. I was given a cup of lukewarm tea.

Eventually, everyone returned to the boat exclaiming how awesome was the experience! – Well that was hardly the word I’d use!!!

Next, we went to Pinzon for more snorkeling. This time I stayed on the boat and took pictures. I saw seals swimming out to greet the snorkelers and try to play with them. But they had been instructed to ignore them. 

As we left, the guide threw out a line to catch fish. One small grouper was hooked and released.

After a cold lunch on the boat, we landed on Bahia Borrero. We stepped onto a pristine stretch of beach. We were told the sand was so fine because it was actually fish poop! I went for a swim in the cold water. I even put my head under a few times hoping to wash off that greasy stinging sunscreen. Rose said I was probably allergic or I wouldn’t be having that reaction.

Also I had painful sunburns on exposed places where I neglected to put sunscreen.  Remember, this was right on the equator in August!

After returning to Puerto Ayora, we paid the guide extra to stop at a lava cave. It started raining. I was in my tankini and a long sweater and was cold. I thought we were going to see fire shooting out of one end like something from of Dante’s Inferno. Instead, the cave was just a seemingly endless, wide dark tunnel formed by flowing lava.

Inside, it was pitch dark most of the way with dim lights mounted far & few between. We needed the light from Rose’s cell phone just to see where we were going.  Jagged, damp, slippery lava rocks of all sizes were everywhere with a narrow stream in the middle as water leaked down from above. This tunnel seemed to stretch on forever! My nose was streaming the entire way! Eventually, we came upon a high stack of sharp, slippery lava rocks and had to climb carefully to get out.

After we returned to the hotel, my swollen feet and ankles were caked with blood.

The following day, we had excursion to Isla Isabella starting at 8:00 AM. We boarded a ferry to our boat which was swaying in the choppy water and jumped on board! – The previous day, we had to jump on several rolling boats to reach ours and I was wincing in pain with each leap!

After everyone was seated, the boat shot off at what must have been 60 MPH (at least) over huge rolling swells!  This was a wild, bumpy, often heart-stopping ride!  It was fun for only the first 15 minutes, imagine over 2 hours of this! I was grateful for the motion sickness pills.

This excursion was more of a sightseeing tour, although we stopped for a half hour in a picturesque lagoon for snorkelers.  This time, 5 other people waited on the boat.

Isla Isabella was amazing! There are 5 active volcanoes on this island. Lichen covered the volcano shards that arose from the ground. We stopped at a pretty flamingo lagoon, a turtle breeding center, also Conchay Perla.

On these excursions, we saw lots of exotic wildlife such as Galapagos penguins, blue-footed Boobies, iguanas, seals, sea lions, & of course gigantic Galapagos tortoises.

By late afternoon on the Isabella tour, I was in tremendous pain. Plus all those 4:00 AM starts and lack of naps started to kick-in. I’d seen enough giant tortoises & iguanas, so I returned to the bus and slept.

After we returned to dock, I was reminded of the miserable, bumpy 2 hour plus ride back to Puerto Ayora so I went looking for a bathroom.  One was at the end of an elevated walkway.  A big sea lion was stretched out right in the middle! Well, he wasn’t going to detour me! I tried not to bother him. But I think the bottom of my long skirt may have brushed against him. He made it clear that he didn’t like my walking back & forth! I was fortunate he didn’t bite me in the ankle!

After we returned to the boat, Rose found a spot in a corner where I could take off my flip-flops and curl up. Despite the wild & bumpy ride, I fell fast asleep.  People were astounded. Even crew members came to stare at me in amazement, I am told. Because it was like sleeping on a roller coaster!!! As we approached Isla Santa Cruz, Rose shook me awake. Every eye on the boat was fixed on me. -- They probably thought I was dead!!! While I snoozed, several people had thrown up, I heard. Glad I missed it!

One of our favorite places to eat was a Peruvian restaurant on Ocean Street. One evening we were treated to a floor show. Couples in elaborate native costumes performed various dances for us. The last performers were 3 ladies balancing tall dolls on their heads.

Afterward, one of the dancers came to our table and placed her doll upon it. She extended her hand to me.  I pointed down at my feet and then to Rose, “Take her,” I said.  The dancer took one look at my hideous, bloody, swollen feet & ankles, and apologized.

Rose got up and shook her tushy to a Peruvian beat.  She made me proud!

Our final day in the Galapagos, we both felt like one giant bruise. We decided to take it easy and just explore the little shops around Puerto Ayora.

The following one, was another starting at 4:00 AM. Plus the day was stressful as well as long. We had to be crammed onto the ferry again, before boarding an over-crowded bus to the airport. Running late, we left Baltra and landed in Guayaquil 1 hour rather than the 2 hours required.

The airport was adorned with beautiful tropical waterfalls lining the baggage claim area. However, the rest of it was covered in tacky advertisements for all manner of products! The listed schedules had these rather than airline names. We had difficulty locating our gate.  At customs we were questioned repeatedly. Rose’s detergent pods created suspicion and a female agent felt between my breasts. We were happy to finally board our plane for home.

Rock’n Rose & I returned to Fort Lauderdale Aug 13 around 10:00 PM. The weather was just as rainy & hot as when we had left. We were too tired to make the 3 hour drive up to Vero Beach, so we stayed the night there.

This was a big relief!  I didn’t relish coming home to a dark house and hobbling outside with a flashlight to turn my water back on; although I did braver things during the hurricanes.

We returned home to Florida in time for peak hurricane season.  Despite the El Nino effect, this looks to be an active one!