The Sochi Olympics ended
last month. However it’s the 1980 Moscow Olympics that hold special
significance for me. I toured Russia back in the fall of 1979 as the Soviet
Union was preparing for world-wide attention. St. Basil’s Cathedral was under restoration.
Earlier in September, Florida
was hit by hurricane David. This was considered a minor category 1 hurricane,
yet it did $20, 000. in damage to our home. --That was 20,000 in 1970’s
dollars! Also we were without electricity for 8 days. We were one of the last
homes to be restored.
I was told that Soviet
hotels had substandard accommodations and were bugged. Plus the waiters in restaurants
had dirty fingernails. But following the aftermath of a hurricane, I joked it
would feel like the Ritz, regardless.
As I began packing for my
trip, an international incident occurred at J.F.K. airport in New York. A
ballet dancer named Alexander Godunov had defected. His wife remained on the
plane. Authorities refused to allow its departure, waiting for Mrs. Ballet
Dancer to join her husband. The wait was a long and tense one. She refused and
returned to the Soviet Union a heroine.
My father urged me to cancel
the trip! He warned that the Russians would retaliate against American tourists
and I might not make it home. However, he had been against this from the start!
Others told me I was un-American for even wanting to go there. These were the
cold war years and they were the enemy.
But I knew I would hate
myself for not seizing this opportunity. This was a great value, money-wise.
Plus I traveled off-season which made it even cheaper. How could I not go?
Of course I heard plenty of
horror stories! A lady I met at a social event had just returned. A couple in
her group had the wrong entry date on their visa thanks to their travel agent.
After landing in Moscow, they were carted off to a detention camp for 3 days.
The American Embassy had to intervene to get them released. However, their trip
was free as a result. Personally, I hope they sued that travel agent out of
business!
My travel agent cautioned against
wearing any extremes in fashion, because it would attract unwelcome attention.
Bags packed and paperwork in
order, I flew from West Palm Beach to J.F.K. in New York. There I boarded Finnair.
My 1st stop was Amsterdam, a city I had visited just the year
before. The 2nd was Helsinki, and the 3rd was my destination,
Moscow. It had been an almost 15 hour journey in coach!
Stepping off the plane, my
first sight was an armed soldier. Taking a longer look, he was just an awkward
teenager. The outfit seemed to be wearing him. During the trip I saw numerous
children in uniforms, often marching.
Inside the airport, our tour
group had a chance to meet. Our hotel was directly across from the Kremlin. We
joked that it was better for them to watch us. On each floor, an attendant was
stationed to record our comings and goings. We were required to surrender our
passports and were issued a card.
This was my 1st
vacation with a roommate. I wasn’t thrilled over this, but it was strongly
suggested by the tour company as they could not guarantee a private room in
some of the hotels.
However, they did an
excellent job of matching people up. My roomy was Nancy, a 29 year old
advertising executive from New York. She was tall, dark-haired, and looked like
a model. We both made bee-line for the mirrors whenever we returned to our
hotel room! (I was 28 & blonde.) Our Moscow room was plain with a big
picture window. We scanned the place for bugging devices.
At dawn every A.M. we saw
the little old ladies in their babushkas sweeping the street. The younger women
our age wore lots of make-up, even if they were doing construction work.
Breakfast always began with
a tasty slice of cheese along with a glass of juice, followed by an enormous
breakfast. ALL meals were included and they feed us well!!! We received a 3
course lunch followed by a 5 course dinner. I’m surprised that I didn’t return
home 15 pounds heavier. However, like most escorted tours, they kept us on the
move. There was a tremendous amount of walking.
Frequently at dinner, we
were given a small dish of caviar. Most of the others didn’t like it, so it was
divided up between my roomy and me. I loved spreading it thickly on hearty
Russian black bread. I could have made a meal out of this!
Our 1st day we
toured Red Square in the heart of Moscow & the Kremlin, along with the many
historical and architectural monuments and sights there in, such as the Kremlin
Palace, the meeting place of the Soviet elite where official receptions were
held. From the central square of the Kremlin, were 3 cathedrals. We toured
each. The 1st, the Assumption Cathedral where tsars were crowned,
the 2nd, the Annunciation Cathedral originally a private chapel for
Ivan III and the 3rd, Archangel Michael's Cathedral serving as a
burial vault of the Russian Tsars and princes.
Later, we toured the
Armoury, Russia’s oldest museum. Also the famous Pushkin Museum filled with
works by world famous artists.
Also we saw the Bolshoi
Theatre and the Tretyakov Art Gallery. Plus the USSR Exhibition of Economic
Achievement displaying 300 pavilions devoted to various Soviet industries. We
took a memorable ride on the Moscow subway. Each station looked like a museum
with art works, marble columns, and intricate mosaics.
We toured a Soviet Space
Museum. A replica of the Sputnik satellite contained a stuffed dog. This
represented the one that was sacrificed in the orbit. I remember watching the
sky for it when I was 6 years old. I was never told the dog didn’t survive. Now
I was sickened at the thought.
Several in our tour were
approached by Russians who spoke of defecting. They were told NOT to come here
unless they had a way of supporting themselves! A rough-looking Russian man approached
an older woman in our group and asked her to go home with him and exchange
clothes with his wife. Of course she didn’t!
It was not unusual to see 2
women or 2 men with arms locked or holding hands. We stared in amazement at 2
armed soldiers as they swaggered down the sidewalk holding hands. But the open
affection between same sex people was not of a romantic nature, there.
Evenings in Moscow were busy
as well. We attended a Russian night club with a floor show, a concert, and a
costumed folk performance with Russian singing and dancing, plus a lavish opera
with lots of scene-chewing.
Our gift shopping was done
mostly in the Beriozka Shops at our Intourist hotels. This was a 3-stage
process! After an item was selected, a salesperson handed over a receipt which
you then gave to a cashier. After paying, he would stamp your receipt. Then you
returned to the counter to pick-up your purchase.
Our last day in Moscow, we viewed
the Lenin Mausoleum. Visited daily by thousands, the line stretched clear
around several blocks. But it moved fast! Visitors weren’t allowed to stop and gawk
at the Lenin cadaver. Armed guards hurried the line along. No cameras were
allowed.
Lenin was almost a deity
there, his image was everywhere! They even sold statues of him in all the gift
shops. I joked that we should buy up a bunch to give as gag gifts to all our
friends at Christmas.
It was also illegal in the USSR
to snap someone’s picture without their permission. So we had to be careful.
The Soviet Union spanned so
much territory that we did as much traveling by airplane as by bus. And let me
tell you, some of those Soviet planes were such old clunkers, we feared for our
lives when boarding them. Now we were off to Kiev the capitol of the Ukrainian
Republic and the 3rd most important city in the USSR. Kiev was a
picturesque city. To see recent photos of it fire-bombed and charred is sad.
Our 1st outing
was a cruise on the Dnieper River, followed by a tour of Tsarina Elizabeth’s palace,
later more cathedrals, another costumed folk performance, and of course more
caviar! Also we toured the Monastery of the Caves where we went down into the
catacombs to view human bones.
The last day there, we
traveled to the Babi Yar Killing Ravine where the largest single Nazi massacre
occurred during WWII. The ravine was enormous, a chilling sight. Afterward, we
toured an art gallery displaying the most graphically violent paintings I have
ever seen! From what I see and read in the news, Kiev’s violent history
continues today.
Next we boarded a plane to
Simferopol, capitol of the Crimea. From there we took a motor- coach to Yalta
at the most southern tip of the Crimean Peninsula on the Black Sea. The drive
was breathtaking! This is truly one of the most exotically beautiful resort
cities in the world. Our hotel was as lavish and modern as any in the Western
world. However the beach was less than impressive. Instead of sand, it had
gravel. Bathers sat on boards rather than towels.
We toured the expansive
Nikitsky Botanical Gardens filled with gorgeous, exotic flora from all over the
world. Our Russian tour guide gushed over the Bougainvilleas from Italy. I
chuckled because they are common place here in Florida. Next, we toured the summer
retreat of Nicholas & Alexandria. It was my favorite palace because it had
an air of serenity as well as beauty. Also it was the site of the famous Yalta
Conference after WWII.
Now it was off on another Aeroflot
to Leningrad (St.Petersburg) the 2nd largest city in the USSR. With
its numerous canals, bridges, and statues, it reminded me of Venice, only it
was far grander! After a visit to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, we traveled to Palace
Square where Russia had fallen to revolutionaries, followed by a tour of Nicholas
& Alexander’s winter palace. – The movies are wrong! It was a back
staircase the revolutionaries stormed, not the grandiose one in front.
Next we went to the
Hermitage Museum where The Thinker by Rodin was on display. But I was intrigued
with the Egyptian mummy. To me, it was more impressive than Lenin’s waxy-looking
corpse back in Moscow.
Come evening, we attended a
Russian circus inside a gigantic auditorium. This was different from the
Western variety because the acrobats and animal acts were all woven around a
story.
The following day, we took
an excursion to Petrodvorets, Peter the Great’s palace famous for its numerous
beautiful fountains. Later we went to a Russian zoo, which made me feel sorry
for the animals. Their pens and cages were too small.
Our last evening in the USSR
we were treated to a gala farewell dinner at a popular Russian restaurant with
entertainment and of course caviar.
The next day, we boarded
Finnair for home. A day-long layover awaited us in Helsinki. Finland had a flat
terrain of mostly woods and lakes. Small groups of us took cabs into the city.
We spent most of the day riding the streetcars and sightseeing. The atmosphere
there was completely different, the air seemed brighter and glowing, no
grimness anywhere. The people appeared fitter and were far better dressed than
the Soviets. My group of 5 was having such a grand time in Helsinki
that we lost track of time! The airport personnel rushed us onto the plane upon
our return.
The trip ended too soon for
me. I have been to more exotic places like Morocco, but I’ve never been anyplace
that felt more alien than the USSR. For this reason, it was my most memorable trip.
As much as I love it, I haven’t had caviar since. My budget doesn’t allow for
it.
In Moscow, I had purchased a
small figurine of Misha the Bear, the official symbol of the 1980 Moscow
Olympics. I planned to watch on TV the following year. However, no North
American athletes were allowed to participate. We boycotted the Moscow Olympics
because of the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan, where we are now entrenched.
I still have that little
figurine today, along with my memories.