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Saturday, February 27, 2016

LAMPANG TO CHIANG RAI


The chilly morning began with a visit to another WAT as my temple tour of Thailand continued. Wat Phra Tha Lampang  Luang displayed  graceful architecture with richly colored interiors along with 16th century murals.

Afterward we stopped at Phayao to see Wat Sri Khom Kham. This one was situated by a lake and dated back to the 12th century.

On the way to Chiang Rai, we stopped at a western style bathroom near an outside market. A little girl with her mom approached. The mother asked Ketsara in Thai if her 7 year old daughter could practice English on me. Well in perfect English, she asked where I was from. I told her, “Florida”. I’m sure she didn’t know Florida from Montana. But a week ago, I wouldn’t have known Lampang from Lop Buri!

I inquired what grade she was in and she replied, “First”. Now, I was really impressed! I remember myself in the First Grade; I was struggling to learn English too, only it’s my native tongue!

We arrived in Chiang Rai (Thailand’s northern most city) around lunch time. This is where I considered retiring. I liked the mountain scenery and the mornings & nights were quite cool. But the days turned hot fast and this was January!  During summer months temperatures can reach 100 degrees! And worse, many places such as restaurants have no air-conditioning. Instead, they are open on 2 sometimes 3 sides.

After our meal, we cruised in a long-tailed boat on the Mae Kok River. We stopped along the river bank to visit the Akha hill tribe residing there. This tribe dwelled in raised houses. The women wore elaborate headdresses decorated with beads, shells, & coins. I was told these people had migrated here from Tibet. A lady proudly posed in her outfit for my camera. Afterward, I gave her a tip in Baht.

I found myself quickly running low on film despite bringing along 4 disposable cameras. There are just too many extraordinary sites in Thailand! I tried being selective, but this was difficult.

My hotel was away from the city. This room had both a balcony and a terrace. The terrace overlooked water and the balcony other guestrooms. It was late in the day and quite warm. I like to walk around au natural, so I tried to pull down the shade over the balcony. It refused to budge! So I grabbed the shade and jerked it down! BIG MISTAKE!!! It wasn’t meant to come down. Later, I had to pay a fine for damage. – To my mind, a shade serves a purpose. It isn’t supposed to be just a decoration!

I don’t know what was going on outside, but that night I was kept awake by firecrackers in the distance. Ketsara heard them from her room, too! But wasn’t aware of any reason.

Early the following morning, we visited Chiang Saen, an ancient town on the Mekong River. Chiang Saen once served as the main city before 1262 when Chiang Rai became the province’s capitol.

And of course we visited another WAT! This one built in the 13th century, Wat Phra That Chedi Luang.

7-Eleven stores are popular in Thailand! But most of the products on display were unfamiliar to me. The Thai equivalent to Walmart or K-mart is the Big C. But I didn’t go inside one because I was so enthralled with the outside markets.

Chiang Rai in days past was the main source of opium in this part of the world. This was where all the poppies grew. I toured the House of Opium Museum. I saw exhibits featuring tools for planting, harvesting, and trading. Ancient smoking pipes were on display. There were even pipes for sale! I thought of buying one for my friend Rose as a gag gift.

Ketsara thought it might create problems for me going thru customs. The last thing I needed was any more airport aggravation. Airports were the bane of this trip!

Next, it was on to Thailand’s northern most point where the Mekong and Ruak River meet, the world famous place where Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand all come together.

Sunday, February 21, 2016

SUKHOTHAI TO LAMPANG


This morning it was a tour of Sukhothai’s Old City, now a historical park. The Sukhothai Kingdom is considered the Golden Age of Thai civilization. It is protected by 2 moats and 3 rows of earthen walls. As Ketsara & I waited to catch the trolley, I chatted with a nice man from Cameroon who spoke English with a lovely accent.

The trolley was too packed with Chinese students to take us. And we didn’t want to wait 45 minutes to catch another, so we decided to go back and rent bicycles. I had not been on one since I was 10 years old. I wanted to peddle barefoot, because the thongs I’d purchased had thick ridged soles, plus my feet were so swollen, I could better feel the pedals that way. Ketsara thought this was a bad idea!

She rented a bicycle with an extra seat and she peddled! I hung onto her. I was wearing a big, broad-brimmed hat and we must have made a comical sight, because we passed a group of Chinese who shot pictures of us!

Afterward, we toured the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum displaying ancient artifacts. Then more WATS; (temples) Wat Chang Lom, Wat Chedi Jet Thaco, and Wat Nang Phaya.

I saw much of rural Thailand on the journey north. Squat toilets are unavoidable, believe me, I tried! The seat is on the floor. There’s no tissue, you must always carry Kleenex. There’s a tub of water with a pan next to the seat. You pan water into the toilet to flush! The floor is always wet and you hope it’s just water! If you’re lucky, there’s a sink outside for hand washing, but you must shake dry. -- I carried hand sanitizer in my purse!

By afternoon, we arrived in Lampang. After visiting the local market, a horse-drawn buggy awaited me for a city tour. Then I visited a 100 year old teakwood house; also another WAT, this one, Wat Don Tao.

Thai ladies were always complementing me on my porcelain complexion. I was told they use cosmetics to lighten theirs as much as possible. I told Ketsara that in Florida everyone has been brainwashed to believe you’re not attractive unless you’re sporting a tan; despite damaging effects of the sun. My skin doesn’t tan, it just burns and peels.

Always, I was referred to as “Madame” by Ketsara and the other Thais. This made me feel as if I’d stepped into another century and I was an Imperialist.

Late afternoon, I was driven to the Lampang River Lodge Resort for the night. This was located away from the city and as most resorts there, was so spread out, I was handed a map along with my room key.

The rooms all sat high atop long stilts with the river below, beyond was jungle. The porch had a comfortable lounge chair and I was exhausted.

The following morning I was up and dressed for breakfast just before 6:00 AM. We had to roll at 8:00 AM and I had plenty to do. Outside, it was still dark as night. The lengthy steps down from my room were so narrow they reminded me of those on pyramids in Central America, used for rolling bodies. I already experienced several tumbles on this trip and these dark stairs gave me pause. I clung tightly to the railing and stepped gingerly.

The pathways were dimly lit. Scenic in sunlight, but spooky in darkness, this now felt like a Ghost Resort. Not a soul was around! Plus it seemed unusually cold for Thailand. I searched until I came to a man sweeping the sideway. With my hand, I made eating motions. He smiled and directed me to a long, wooden suspension bridge, (these are common in Thailand) then pointed to the left.

Following his directions, I came upon a nicely stocked Breakfast Bar bustling with cooks & staff, but no patrons. I carried my tray down to a table by the river. It was so chilly, I was tempted to go back and get my heavy sweater, but I just filled up on hot coffee instead.

After I finished my big, American-style breakfast with Thai flourishes, I was still the only guest around. The sun had yet to rise.

At 8:00 AM Ketsara & Pako awaited me. There was more of Lampang to see, before we traveled further north.

I found it heart-wrenching all the sad and despondent dogs abandoned throughout Thailand. Signs featuring dogs with X’s thru them could be seen on the roadsides. I asked Ketsara what they meant. “No dog dumping, here. It’s illegal,” she said. “But people do it anyway!” And worse, unscrupulous types round them up and jam them together in crates to be sold as meat in Viet Nam. This is a horrendous fate!

Monday, February 15, 2016

AYUTTHAYA (OLD SIAM) TO SUKHOTHAI & WATS, WATS!


More WATS; Wat Yai Chai Mongkol, Wat Phra Sri Sanpetch, Wat Phra Nan Choeng, the ruins of Wats too, I saw them all! WAT is the Thai word for temple.

I may have been Buddhist in a past incarnation. I’ve always had issues with Christianity. On my mother’s side they’re all Pentecostal Holy Rollers. Translation: They speak in tongues and dance carrying poisonous serpents. -- You can’t say these people don’t live on the edge!  On my father’s side it’s German Lutheran & Irish Catholic. But now I was sitting on my heels frequently praying to Buddha!

It’s offensive to display the bottoms of your feet to this image.  Also in Thailand, a person’s head is considered sacred; it’s rude and disrespectful to touch this part of another’s body.

As a history buff, I was eager to see the Capitol of old Siam. Ayutthaya was built at the junction of the Lop Buri Nam Pasak & Chao Phraya Rivers. In its heyday, (between 1350 & 1767) this island city rivaled the great Capitols of Europe and ruled an area that exceeded both England & France combined. World famous for its fabulously ornate palaces and temples, it was thoroughly sacked in 1767 by Burmese invaders. Now in ruins, it’s a national park where several of the sites have been partially restored. A haunting sadness seemed to rise from the earth as I strolled about.

Leaving Ayutthaya, we continued on to Lop Buri, where we stopped for lunch. A waiter led us thru a lush jungle garden to a secluded table by a pond. I asked my guide Ketsara if there were other patrons. I saw no other tables or people around. “The tables are all private,” she replied, “they are hidden at the end of other paths.” I loved this! Our meal was beautiful and serene, despite the annoying bugs striking an inharmonious note.

After lunch, we visited Phra Prang Sam Yot; Lop Buri’s most famous landmark. A former Hindu shrine decorated with stucco, the laterite & sandstone structure featured three adjoining towers signifying the Hindu trinity. But now this shrine had been converted into a Buddhist temple.

In Phitsanuloke, we viewed yet another temple, Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat. It’s called Wat Yai by the locals. This temple was built in the middle of the 14thcentury on the banks of the Nan River at the foot of the Naresuan Bridge. The main entrance is immense with mother-of-pearl inserts. Inside, its golden Buddha is considered by many to be the most beautiful in the country.

Outdoor markets seemed to be almost everywhere! All are filled with fabulous merchandise as well as a variety of foods. The clothes & accessories displayed were amazing and inexpensive; lovely sarongs, gorgeous bling, & flashy hair accessories! I could really go native there!!! Also popular are the colorful harem pants, even men were wearing them. (After returning home, I saw this same style in a catalog for $60, here; they were only $7 & $8!) I bought several pairs; they’re lightweight, perfect for both Thailand and Florida weather.  Ketsara lent me Baht (cash) until I could get to a bank, which was above and beyond what I would expect! 

Compared to other parts of the world, North Americans are boring dressers. I am sooo sick of looking at jeans & T-shirts! Blaaah! And yes, It IS possible to dress both comfortably and look nice simultaneously, plus it’s far more interesting.

If you take away the surreal looking mountains, exotic temples and people, parts of Thailand look much like Florida, only hotter and more humid. Another thing I found interesting was that in many areas the mountains resembled prangs, the tall tower-like spires found on the temples. This was less the case the further north we traveled where the terrain became more mountainous and the weather cooler.

Thailand has more outside steps than anyplace I’ve ever been! Mostly, they are inconsistent; one can be short and the next one steep, or even missing altogether. You really need to watch your step! I was constantly falling down, but I got right back up! (No Life Alert bracelet for this old lady!) By the end of my journey, I had 2 cracked big toenails, (one turned black, the other black & purple) plus my feet were swollen during the entire trip. I broke four fingernails (two below the skin surface) but it was all worth it!

Buddhist Monks would pop up unexpectedly. It is forbidden for a woman to touch or even sit next to one. I fretted that being the (Ahem!) graceful creature that I am, that I would accidentally fall on one and pin him to the ground with me on top. -- That’s exactly the kind of thing that would happen to only me. Fortunately, that never happened!

Late afternoon, we arrived in Sukhothai. Here, I spent the night in a beautiful teak hotel! To reach my room I had to cross a wooden suspension bridge. All the rooms were situated atop stairs and the inside was nothing short of elegant. Mine had a back porch overlooking a garden pond and another bridge.

Every hotel or resort I stayed throughout Thailand had either a terrace or porch with a water view. Also each room had a kettle & burners plus tea fixings. This made for a perfect way to relax in the evenings!

Saturday, February 6, 2016

HALF PAST MIDNIGHT IN BANGKOK


That’s the time I landed in Thailand. Further airport stress and confusion awaited me; the place was bustling with activity along with more long lines and escalators. A flight attendant had announced the correct baggage carousel, however due to her accent, I couldn’t decipher it. (This happened more than once on my journey!) It was chaos! I kept running back & forth among multiple carousels. My shoes pinched on the last flight. It was just another thing adding to my discomfort besides that awful screaming baby next to me.

My bags were among the last off the carousel as usual. As I walked past the exit, numerous men held up signs. I searched for my name. A smiling woman stepped forward. “I know it has to be you, Dianne,” she said. “And you look like a princess!” This was my private guide Ketsara. I was relieved to see her!

Due to the heavy Bangkok traffic, it was an hour ride to my hotel. In Thailand, they drive on the opposite side of the road. Also I was surprised to see the steering wheel situated on the right side of the van instead of the left as automobiles here.

My hotel, The Chatrium was magnificent! It overlooked the Chao Phraya River. I had a spectacular view from my terrace! 

As I removed my socks I was horrified to see I had Ecuador feet! I couldn’t understand why, I had spent most of my time just sitting. Plus I had purchased proper shoes for this trip along with compression stockings to prevent this. Still, my feet and ankles were swollen!

The following morning I woke up early, despite the fact I wasn’t meeting with Ketsara until noon. I didn’t want to miss my free breakfast. And it was well worth it! This hotel had the most impressive and varied Breakfast Bar I’ve ever seen, featuring both Thai & Western food. So many delicious choices before me, I wanted to try as many as possible and I did! My next meal, a special Thai dinner followed by a theatrical performance, would be later in the evening, so I filled up on breakfast.

Ketsara & I had clicked the moment we met and became instant girlfriends! She was one quarter Chinese and three quarters Thai.  At noon, Ketsara met me inside the hotel as scheduled. Together we took off on the city tour. The driver was a nice man named Pako who spoke little English. The 3 of us would be together for most of the trip.

“Thailand is overrun by vacationing Chinese this time of year,” she said. (Apparently Thailand is their Florida.) Also there’s plenty of Japanese buying up property there and raising prices. (The way the North Americans are doing in Ecuador.)

To my surprise, street signs and others are written in English beneath the Thai, thus because so many Australians and British have retired there.

First up, we strolled around the gorgeous Grand Palace! The Royal Family is greatly beloved in Thailand. Anything derogatory said against them can result in a jail sentence.

Then off to the Wat Phra Keo where a large image of Buddha was carved from a single piece of emerald-green jasper. The majority of sightseers were Chinese and they were everywhere, as Ketsara said. 

The heat & humidity was nearly unbearable. Ketsara told me that January was usually cool and comfortable, but had not been so in recent years.

We explored Bangkok street markets; many featured floral arrangements of sheer artistry displaying intricate detail I’d never before seen. I’m an ex-florist and I was truly impressed!

Next we went for a cruise in a long-tailed boat on the Chao Phraya River. Homes sat atop stilts. Interestingly, expensive teak houses were often situated beside bamboo shacks. The boat slowed as floating markets came up to greet us. The people living along this river could have almost anything delivered right to their back door!

I just had time to shower and change clothes before I was picked up for the Thai Dinner & Cultural Show.

The meal was a buffet consisting of Thai cuisine. Dessert was just fruit & watery coconut ice cream. Outside was a re-creation of an ancient Thai Village. Nuts & fruits were offered as samples.  Also there was a basket of silk worms. I nearly picked up a handful and popped it into my mouth until I saw them wiggling!

Outside the theatre was a pre-show with musicians and a bejeweled singer, costumed dancers followed.

Ketsara was not allowed to sit with me during the theatre performance. I sat with a group of Chinese tourists in their 20’s. It was a wonderful seat with a great view! The stage was enormous and the most elaborate I’d ever seen.

An adorned elephant paraded before us followed by bejeweled dancers attired in traditional costumes. Classical tales & legends were performed. Next a simple village scene appeared as goats ran across the stage amidst chickens. In the next act, a man awakened from a bamboo bed. The audience gasped as he dove head first into the floor and disappeared!  As the lights brightened, you could see it was a pond!!!

Next was a scene featuring an Enchanted Forest existing between this world and the next with half- animal, half-human creatures and faeries flying gracefully thru the air. Following was a graphic depiction of Hell and its punishments. And the finale was the splendor and grandeur of Heaven. The sumptuous beauty and imagination of this show left me breathless.

The following morning, Ketsara, Pako, & I visited lesser known temples in Bangkok before beginning our long journey north. Before entering any temple, we had to remove our shoes. Inside, I was ordered by an attendant to remove my hat & sunglasses. Ketsara was a devout Buddhist. She would kneel down and pray. I did likewise; it seemed like the polite thing to do.

Ketsara told me I was something new for her. Usually she escorted a couple or a family. I was her first solo! This was a private tour. I had a van, a driver, and a guide all just for me! Soon the 3 of us began to feel like a little family.